May 28:

Our second painting day was at Montefalco. The Sherpas drive up to the top of the town's main square and unload the cars and then drive down to the parking lot. The painters disperse to find their selected spaces.

This town was much larger and busier than yesterday's destination. The main square contained three cafes, a grocery store and clothing and jewelry shops. There was also a street that could be called "main" with additional cafes and shops for tourists. 






I have a story about using the public toilet, but you don't want to hear it. Let me just say that I had to buy some toilet paper.



On our way down the main street for lunch, we pass this wine store with this vehicle outside.


Lunch was at a pizza cafe that had burgers and traditional Italian dishes too. Linda had this burger with a cold piece of grilled eggplant on it. I had a scaloppini and there were carafes of red and white wine on the table. 

As an appetizer, they served a plate heaped with freshly fried potato chips - greasy with olive oil but good. We asked for more.

Kay and Bob getting ready to eat.


At the end of the meal, we were served a complimentary frozen lemoncello drink with something added. Everyone left happy.







The afternoon was much like the morning except hotter. I had my afternoon espresso, read some, and chatted with a couple of the Sherpas.

Linda and I had driven by ourselves, so we headed out to find a health food store she thought she had found on the web. Louisa (Tom-Tom GPS) eventually got us to the village (Foligno) and Linda, by intuition, got us to the store itself. The store turned out to be a body building oriented place and not at all what she wanted. 

Next we needed to buy some groceries for our contribution to the potluck dinner that had been scheduled. After a few turns, we decided to head back to the apartment and get some maps and get oriented. When we first arrived, we were told not to be afraid to get lost. And so, fearlessly, we ventured out in the opposite direction from where we usually turn and after driving up and down the road and complaining about how the maps were drawn by Untours, we found a small grocery store that had everything we needed. A few blocks away, we found a farmacia that contained some potions for two of our sick friends.

The potluck was held out in the grassy area between the buildings. 

Our contribution was cooked cabbage and onions and a big can of potato chips. Fifteen of us contributed quite a variety of food from salads, to spaghetti with sausage, to deviled eggs. All of that along with some vodka, bourbon, and wine completed our feast. It reminded me of those scenes in movies where the large Italian family is eating outside on a picnic table and having a really good time. Yes, we did.

May 27:

Castello is a small village on the top of a steep hill about 40 minutes away from our apartment and is where the painting teacher, Janis, picked for the first day of painting.

As is the standard pattern for these painting days, Janis tells her students what she wants them to concentrate on and then they walk around the town to pick their scene where they will sit all day and paint, usually in watercolors.

Here are some of the candidates:

When we first arrived, we thought no one lived in the town, but that turned out to be false. A few residents and a bar/restaurant that is open all day, everyday. There was a second restaurant, but it looked grander and we were not into high class. 

As is the custom, many of the men, sometimes called Sherpas, haul chairs, tables, and painting supplies to the chosen places and then retire to take photographs, drink espresso and beer, and wait for lunch. At noon, we all met at the restaurant for lunch. 

Kay and Bob helping us get through lunch.

The afternoon was a repeat of the morning, except most of the shadows had left and the sun warmed up the town a bit too much. 



Here is an example of the views we see from the heights. Sometimes there will be another hill town visible in the distance.

We cook hamburger for dinner and drink wine. Linda works on the painting she has started and some of the guys retire to the bocce ball court. The court is in horrible condition and that's what we use as an excuse for our terrible performance. Eventually, the mosquitos run me off, but I return later for a few more games, enticed by golden colored grappa. I don't like the clear version, but this stuff was good. An excellent nightcap.

May 26:

This is a day to stock up on supplies: food and painting stuff. After breakfast Kay and Bob and we and a few others head down the road to the local grocery store. After buying essentials and some not so essential items we head back and spend a lazy afternoon.













At 4:00, we drive over to a farm where we are greeted by Ettore, who showed us around his farmhouse and how they make olive oil.

This is the countryside we pass on our way over to the farm.

We pass the town of Trevi on the way.








This is his family farm and he talks about his grandfather and father and how they expanded the property. It must take a variety of activities to make money on a farm these days. Yes, he produces about 1,000 liters of olive oil a year, but also tobacco, organic vegetables, cattle and sheep, and rents 2-3 apartments to vacationers. He keeps things going.
















We asked questions about storing olive oil and how to make sure we're getting the good stuff. Ettore told us that we should just put it on the shelf, out of the light, and not in the refrigerator. We asked about extra virgin and first press descriptions and he told us it was all marketing hype. When the olives are pressed, they are pressed, that's it.

After an orientation by our Untours' representative, Catarina, we are served a delicious Italian dinner, al fresco: brochette, lintels, sausages, hummus, spelt salad, and a chocolate cake for dessert. Oh yes, and bottles and bottles of a local white wine.

Ettore and his wife came around to each table and visited with us while we ate. Nice guy. His English is good enough to joke and was quite the charmer.





Sitting around on a perfect evening in Umbria, eating and visiting with friends, making new friends, and enjoying fresh food - it doesn't get much better.

Now, we're readying to start exploring Umbria and Linda is ready to paint.

Let's go.

May 25:

For the first time in two days, we sleep in and wake without using an alarm. After a continental breakfast at the hotel, we walk over to the church of Santa Maria di Maggiore and have an espresso and watch the tourist walk by.


After about an hour its time to get our bags, walk over to the train station and journey to the airport to meet the painting group.  








We all gather by 1:30, board our vans and take 2 1/2 hours to get to Spoleto where we pick up our rental cars and drive over to Casale Grande. 

A beautiful complex of apartments. We have been here before and knew what to expect. Just as lovely as we remembered.














Our apartment is stocked with a bottle of wine, meat and cheese, bread, and fruit. In addition, our host, sets up a buffet with wine, sandwiches, and dessert.

Then it was to bed for our first night in Umbria.

May 24:

Another early morning to catch the bus to the airport, check-in, security, have an espresso, and arrive at the Easyjet gate just in time to board. When they have full flights, doesn't everyone anymore, they take your carry-on at the gate, but they don't charge you.

Two hours later, we're in Fiumicino Airport, grab a sandwich while we wait for our bags, find the train, and by 11:00 we're in the Roma Termini Railway Station. 














Linda had figured out which side of the station to exit and we started our trek to the hotel. We're doing really well until we try and by-pass a hill and end up going around a very large block and up a bigger hill. We end up at the Hotel Colosseum - very nice. 

We're on the 7th floor with a balcony and lots of space, even in the bathroom. And did I say elevator? Untours picked it for us and they did a really good job.

We eat lunch at a cafe around the block suggested by the staff. I had mussels and clams and Linda had overcooked lamb. We had chicory as a vegetable. Only had that in coffee in the past but it had a tiny bit of something spicy and we both liked it. I dipped mine in my garlic butter with the mussels.

Since we were relatively close to the Roman Forum and Linda was interested in learning more about it, we walked over there. On the way over, we found these Smart Cars parked the way Linda is always trying to get me to park ours in Washington, D.C. They get away with it here.

The audio guide was a waste, but most of the signs had an English portion. 

Toward one side were two former temples that had been turned into Christian churches and had frescos that still had color after 1,500+ years.

We walked over to the Colosseum just to get a better look. We haven't been here in Rome since 2008 with our kids. 

Then a walk back with some unintentional detours. Along the way we found a car (one seater) smaller than our Smartcar.













We were still full from lunch, but that didn't stop us from having a drink and nuts on the rooftop patio and watch the sunset. 























Later, we hear chickens near by. Remember, we're in the middle of Rome.

I think we made the most of our 1/2 day in Rome. We had a great time.

May 23:

Up at the crack of a rainy dawn and drove Deb and Ray to the airport. Kisses and hugs and off they go.

We spent the rest of the day putting the last items in our suitcases and cleaning the house. We had to eat all the leftovers in the refrigerator.

We finished with hours to spare and just hung out. Just before 6:00, the rain had stopped and we decided to go. Peter volunteered to drive us to the station - 4 blocks away. We accepted and said goodbye.

Train to Schipol, bus to Ibis Hotel and to bed. Positioned for our early flight to Rome the next morning.

May 22:

There is only one day left before Deb and Ray return to Florida and it was a rainy, dreary day, but we all agreed, we wanted to do something. It was also their 40th wedding anniversary. We decided to drive to Kinderdijk.

Kinderdijk is where we have been several times in the past and always think its a cool place to bring our visitors. There are 17 windmills in two lines that were used for pumping water.

Its a great place to see a lot of windmills in one place. These days a large Archimedes screw is used for moving the water and the windmills are for viewing by tourist. If you have cable on your TV and play one of the music stations, they usually put a picture of this place up from time to time.

Before visiting the windmills we went out to the main road and had a coffee and poffertjes (sp?) at the Buena Vista cafe.











This is in an old building that a few years ago was converted into a cafe. It has two charming rooms inside.






This one has radios covering one wall and the other has large plagues depicting Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs and some old phones. Quaint.

Then to the souvenir store to pick up those last minute must have items. Ray found a booklet that told a story of how the place got its name. In the 1400's a big storm blew in and damaged the dyke. The area was flooded and a baby in a basket was swept away only to be rescued by some guy. Therefore the Kinder in the name. Sounds a bit like the Moses story in the Bible, but its still a good story. 

And then Deb, Ray, and Linda walked down the path to get closer to the windmills while Bill stayed dry, in the car.

Later, before we went down to de Lindenhof to celebrate the wedding anniversary, Liesbeth and Peter and Noor came over to say goodbye and have a glass of wine and some juice for Noor. We really like them.

Dinner was served by Floor, the 22 year old waitress that I think Deb and Ray have fallen in love with. She's cute and very personable. She jokes with us all.





Linda had the duck and I had lamb chops. I didn't get a picture of what Deb and Ray ordered.







Nicely presented and delicious.













And, a little something special for dessert.

And a loving kiss to end the celebration.

Last day in Holland for the Bonners.